Archive for September, 2007

Turkey Photos

Saturday, September 29th, 2007

All the pictures from Turkey are now on Blakepics, with a selection in the video below.


Alternatively, check here for the full quality version of the Turkey video. The music is “Beautiful Disaster” by John McLaughlin.

Taking to the skies in Cappadocia

Friday, September 28th, 2007

Since having been convinced to take the balloon flight, I booked in the long flight for 210 euros, and a 5.25am pick-up. Twisted arm, that’s me all round.I wandered out to the front of Flintstones around 5.20 in the morning, an ungodly hour where it was still dark and the stars still owned the sky. A short trip to the Kapadokya Balloons office, to pay up – and I was rewarded with some much needed coffee and biscuits. There were a huge number of people in the “staging area”, maybe 60-70 all looking rather bleary-eyed and half awake. I overhead two people talking about “we’re on the last pick-up. They say that’s the best one”. I sauntered over “either I’m with you guys then, or they say that to everyone”.

Another short bus ride for maybe 15 minutes and we were on top of the valley overlooking Göreme, where the balloons would probably be flying from, and I had already been indoctrinated into a tour group of 9 who had been travelling around Turkey together for some weeks.Four balloons were leaving from this spot at the same time, but fortunately I’d managed to single out the same group that would be accompanying me on the flight (not the other way round, of course). Being the only non-tour group member there I found myself as a bit of a celebrity. They were clearly all relieved to have company from outside the usual bus excursion, and nobody had any trouble remembering my name!

First the safety advice, no leaving the basket, how to hold onto the basket in the event of landing in a tree, falling over, or upside down etc. Second the cold air to inflate the balloons a little bit. Then finally the warm air to get them heading upwards, and a quick scramble into the basket before the balloon had a chance to disappear into the distance without us.Like everything in the flight, the take-off was extremely smooth. Our pilot – Mike from Cornwall – did a fantastic job, as far as I know about these sort of things. Before you knew it, we were drifting over valleys, seeing our hotels and watching the sunrise over Cappadocia all the way to the peaks of the distant volcanoes.

It was so breathtakingly beautiful, words just can’t describe. Kappadokya Balloons seemed to be a lot more active than the other seven companies in the area. Taking every opportunity to dip down into canyons and to skim the tree tops. At one point, as we were floating through Love Valley (I think it was that one), I tried to reach out and pick some pears from a growing tree. Not being quite close enough, Mike gently landed the balloon just a short slope down from the tree, leaped out of the basket and returned with an armful of pears for everyone. These extra moments made the flight even more memorable and special and I was very glad I’d paid the extra to fly with the best and longest flying company in Cappadocia. That’s my plug for the post. They deserve it :)

There were another maybe 20-30 balloons in the air which made for an impressive show for the entire trip, on this beautifully clear day. Because of the other three balloons leaving from the same spot, there was plenty of opportunity to “play”. Balloon kisses, where the two balloons touch each other, as well as chatter over the radio about getting into the valleys where other balloons were below, and shutting out those “other” rival companies :)

The flight itself took us through Love Valley, past Göreme, White Valley, Ã-rencikkbaçi Valley and right over the town of Uçhisar, past the castle and the minurets of the mosques below. And every moment was stunning. I’ve taken maybe thirty-four thousand pictures during the two hours. I’ll try and cut these down to a select few ;) After landing one field over from the other three balloons (again, really smooth and only a slight bump), we all got together for a champagne breakfast and slice of cake, certificates, postcards and “celebrating the fact that we’re all still alive”. Kappadokya Balloons’ words, not mine.

A really, really brilliant experience. I’m so glad I had the opportunity and don’t regret a single minute of it. I’ve been telling that to everyone I’ve met ever since and the two people who turned up to stay in the same room as me today are just now working out their bank balance vs. Balloon flight cost plans.

Göreme – There comes a time in every mans life when you just have to live in a cave

Wednesday, September 26th, 2007

When you hear the word Cappadocia, you probably think “best ice creams in the world”. And that’s because you’re saying it incorrectly. When pronounced properly, Cap-Ah-Doe-Key-Ah no longer sounds like it would be an Italian ice cream at all. And we’re back to thinking about rocks. No? Ah well, that was only the introduction…

I’m hearing horrible rumours that might suggest Michael Palin has already beaten me to it with his frank and honest account of Turkey. Which make all of my tourist lies seem a little weak and shallow. But I’ll continue with them anyway, in the hope you missed his show, and god forbid, rely on my blog for your travel insights around the globe. I arrived by overnight bus to Göreme, in Cappadocia early this morning. I first made quick stop off at the Flintstones Cave Pension, and managing to wake up the owner from his slumber just long enough to find out where I should drop off my bag. And no, there are no typo’s in there. I actually am staying in a cave, and it is named after the Flintstones.

The whole landscape is the responsibility of three volcanoes, Ericyes, Hasan and Melendiz Daglan. Thirty million years ago (to the day… possibly) their eruptions covered the area in ash and mud. The ash compressed over time, and has been worked on by the process of erosion ever since. Blocks of a harder rock, usually basalt in this case, are exposed by the erosion all around it, leaving these remarkable looking fairy chimneys left standing.

All of which leaves me to believe I may have woken up to a Geology Adventure Park. Every now and then, I still think I hear the distant screams as a roller-coaster cart speeds over the top of one of the chimneys. But it might be my imagination.Even more remarkable than the landscape itself, as though that weren’t enough – is how the people have been making use of every part of it for thousands of years. The fairy chimneys have been carved out, caves have been used as homes, churches, castles, kitchens, even entire cities. In Göreme especially, the lifestyle continues to this day all over the city.

There’s even an open air museum that has a whole bunch of these buildings in demonstration. I was a little bit wary of visiting this particular site. The last time I visited an open air museum, our school was banned for setting alight to one of the buildings. Not my fault, I might add. Still, the scars of that torment are beginning to heal, and besides, it’s made of stone. What’s the worst that could happen? And that’s how I came to destroy an entire 12th century church to the hill side, as well as find myself in a Turkish prison.

No, it’s not true.

Had you going though, didn’t I?

In many ways, I’m amazed what the people of this area have accomplished, making use of all the resources around them. On the other hand, I think that it’s not so different from people of ancient England making use of the plentiful forest land to build wooden villages and castles everywhere. The only difference is that most of these have survived. So we can still look on with wonder. Whilst our old villages of England may have been burnt to the ground, these have been developed and expanded upon ever since.So much so, the Pension I’m staying in is indeed (as earlier web sites suggested) a cave. And as the saying goes, “you can’t beat living in a cave”. They always said this is how I would end up. Don’t try and deny it.

I’m saying in a 6-person room, which is actually separated into two rooms. Three bedrooms with a door, and a small archway to the lower area, where my bed is. During my first day, I asked two American girls what it was like sleeping in a cave (no, that’s not one of my chat-up lines, dammit :P ). The reply was instant from both, and they replied at the same time with “cold”, and “dark”. Well… here are my thoughts.

  1. It’s pitch black at night. There are no windows to the outside world. None.
  2. The light switch is at the other end of the room. If you arrive back to the room quite late, and everyone else is already asleep… They probably won’t appreciate you stumbling over them to find you way around. I’m very fortunate that my camera gives off a usable light when in “preview” mode.
  3. Caves don’t have many power sockets.
  4. When you emerge out of the cave in the morning, and the sun is shining… It’s like, well, emerging out of a cave.
  5. Sleeping in total darkness is easy, and rather comfortable.
  6. Yes, it’s true. It can be kinda cold. But the blankets are good :)

Anyway, there are some first impressions for you. More tomorrow :)

Good bye Pamukkale

Wednesday, September 26th, 2007

Well, I’m getting slightly mixed up. My notebook is full of scribbles about what on earth is going on, but I don’t even know what day it is. So with this in mind, I’ll write about my last day in Pamukkale. I haven’t posted any of the “future” posts yet, anyway. So I think I can safely get away with it :)

I’ve had three very relaxing days in Pamukkale now. Lots of reading good books, lots of walking, lots of quiet nights talking over good meals.

I’m very much enjoying my holiday. Very much :)

I was talking to the owner of the hostel a little about the history of his business and his plans for the future. It interests me to know what motivates people, see. I was a little shocked and saddened by his desire to close down the hostel part of his business. He had a builder in 2 years ago to build a house for himself and his wife next to the complex of 13 rooms. During that time, the builder asked about why people would turn up with backpacks and then leave ten minutes alter after having seen the rooms. Well, they’re basic. Which is reallly all I need, and more of what you’d expect for the price. But he didn’t have any nicer rooms to cater for that kind of guest.

So, rather than build the one floor for his house, this particular builder said that he would not leave until he had built three floors. And that they could decorate the rooms however they liked. He asked for absolutely nothing in return, and to this day, the third floor still remains unpaid.

That’s Turkish selflessness.It was a heartwarming tale, but me, still a little saddened by the decision to close the hostel area. Then I found I was the only one staying in it, and I began to understand a little bit more. I not only booked into a 4-person room, using only one bed, I had a whole 13 rooms at my disposal! So, I guess I can forgive him for wanting to concentrate on the more profitable side of the business.

On a completely separate note, I’ve been cursed with two terrible afflictions during this trip.The first one, the people I really get along with at the hostels are the same ones who are leaving the next day. It’s happened since that first group in Istanbul. Perhaps they’re trying to tell me something? I haven’t seen any move into a hostel just around the corner yet though, so I’m still under the belief it’s just a coincidence.

The second, everywhere I’ve left has been cursed with horrible rain. Rain the day after I left London. Okay, that’s not that unusual. Rain as I sat down on the coach at Istanbul. What happened to the brilliant sunshine?? Not that I care… Heavy storms as was about to leave the hostel at Pamukkale.

“Do you have an umbrella?” – asked The Wife.
“Got a jumper.” Said I, blessing my foresight to be well prepared for my holiday to the boiling hot country of Turkey.
“Hey, I just got back from the centre.” Said The Husband as he reappeared.
“Oh yeah? Was it dry there?” Said I.
“No.”

So I very kindly got a lift to the bus stop. And the second of the 11+ hours journeys across Turkey. I’m getting kind of sick of those, y’know? :) It beats the trains, that take even longer but next time I’ll seriously prepare with some flights.Tomorrow. Cappadocia, to the bat-cave! Or something like that.

Your help requested, for hot air ballooning over Cappadocia

Sunday, September 23rd, 2007

I’m still yet to decide on this very important decision … So, leave a comment to help me along the way :)

One of the activities in Cappadocia is hot air ballooning through the valley, and skimming the tops of the “fairy chimneys”. It costs 230 euros, which isn’t *really* a part of my holiday budget … But … Should I do it?

Help me to justify it without feeling self-guilt. Vote now, vote lots, tell your friends. You have until mid-day tomorrow (Monday). And look, my blog is like one of those interactive choose-your-story adventure books. With less story, interactivity, choosing, adventure, and certainly less ogres.